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This topic contains 18 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by 2 months, 3 weeks ago.
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![Villiers Mk25 Manual Villiers Mk25 Manual](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pQAAAOSwC7NenF8a/s-l300.jpg)
- I’m fairly certain that is a variant of the 4/5 Carb , which was unique to Atco(I’m not 100% on that , but have never seen it on any other machine)
It’s a very simple carb to work on and get clean , which leads me to suspect you have an ignition problem , either timing , or coil/condenser failure.Andy.Couldn’t get that link to work , first and foremost would be to get the coil and condenser PROPERLY tested , and by that I don’t mean wasting ones time with a multimeter.Andy.Hi all.
I seem to be having similar problems with my machine.
It will start after 4 or five pulls from cold. It runs for a few minutes then dies and will not run till it cools down.
Been playing with the carb but that doesn’t seem to make much difference.
How would I get the coil tested?
Villiers parts show it as a £75 part which is a bit much just to try.
MickI know it might sound strange but have you changed the plug. Not had much to do with Villiers but I do know Hondas are prone to cutting out when hot if the plug is old.Curiously I bought a Denso version of the plug that was in when I got it. And that might well be wrong as it was a garden ornament not a runner.
I swapped back to the old plug and it runs, bit of popping back through the carb but it recovers and runs ok.
Shakes like a tin outhouse which I guess is the cutter head, i took off the spring drive bar to cut drive to the blade and it runs fine. So it may be a carb issue as it doesn’t seem to respond quickly to cutting the throttle and coughs back through the intake when it does slow down.
I’m.in the dark with these old 2 strokes, it could be running just right and I’m expecting too much of it. Then again I may be way off the mark on setting it up.
I will try to get hold of an appropriate plug and may replace the HT lead as it’s a bit frayed at the plug end, still give a hell of a kick if I brush past it.
I will carry on tinkering before I drag it to some grass lol. I live on a hill and dragging it back up without reliable engine power is quite hard.
MickAny reputable garden machinery dealer should have a proper tester , try to go for one that’s been in buisness for quite a while , most modern upstarts know next to nothing about coils and condensers.
Spitting and banging is quite often incorrect timing thoroughly check it.Andy.Points and timing are all correct.Did you set the timing from basics ie x degrees or fractions of an inch btdc or by using any arrows or marks that you may have found on the flywheel ?I set my timing by measuring the piston 5/32 of an inch BTDC. I take it that’s right? I simply measured it using a caliper gauge, what is the best way to be accurate? Make a L shaped probe with the bottom part machined to 5/32?
There were arrows and Mark’s on the alloy fan casing and flywheel but as I wasnt sure about them i didnt use them.
George from villiers parts says its probably an ignition issue.
I will check and reset the timing to rule that out before I start replacing things.It is possible that you may have mixed up two methods of setting the timing. Your original method of putting the piston to the specified amount before tdc and turning the fly wheel unit the points just open is correct.
On some engines, In an move to make things easier Villiers muddied the waters a bit by doing all the initial set up and then stamping an arrow on to the flywheel corresponding to a nib on the casting with the piston positioned at tdc. Muddle the two systems together and the timing will be somewhat amiss.
I would go back to your basic method. Set the correct points gap , turn the engine back to the specified figure and fit and lock the flywheel in the position where the points are just opening .In case it is of use I’ve just scanned this for you. Interestingly in this edition there is no mention of the “short cut”.I have cracked it I think. I know it doesn’t sound as good as eureka but it’s the same feeling.
I took the whole fan casing, fan and flywheel off this morning. Cleaned the points and set them to 14 thou.
I used a depth gauge I made to measure from the plug hole to the piston crown, added 5/32 and that came to 20.63mm
I then used that gauge to hold the piston while I set the points to just opening.
When I rebuilt the cowling and fitted the fan the two arrows lined up absolutely bang on TDC.
Two pulls is all it takes to start her now and she will start from hot or cold. - Posts
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Villiers Mk 25 C Manual
Make offer - Villiers MK20 Mk25 Exhaust Valve - Genuine Original Villiers Part EM393 Govenor Gear Assembly to fit Villiers MK10, 12, C12, 15, 20, and 25 - EM286/1 £3.95. Villiers Engine Manual Mk 12 how to time a villiers mk12 how to time a villiers mk12 by krist876 9 years ago 1 minute, 50 seconds 20,817 views this is a video showing you how to time a, villier's mk 12 engine, from dismantaling to point's. Villiers MK12/2 Engine Villiers MK12/2 Engine by martin3304 6 years ago 5 minutes, 1 second 10,684 views. On closer inspection of the Villiers Mk25 (4-stroke) flywheel, the entire periphery is magnetic. Normally, for these ignition modules to work, they require a flywheel with a single magnet. Has anyone successfully fitted a Meco/Nova module to a Villiers Mk20 or 25? I think the Mk10, 12 and 15 also have a similar magneto setup, but not sure. Title: Villiers Mk20, Mk25, Mk40 Four Stroke Operating Manual Author: Keith Wootton Subject: Vintage Engines Created Date: 10/8/2004 6:13:25 PM.
![Villiers Mk25 Manual Villiers Mk25 Manual](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/nEIAAOSw9h5enF8Z/s-l300.jpg)
This topic contains 18 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by 2 months, 3 weeks ago.
Villiers Mk25 Manual Instructions
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- I’m fairly certain that is a variant of the 4/5 Carb , which was unique to Atco(I’m not 100% on that , but have never seen it on any other machine)
It’s a very simple carb to work on and get clean , which leads me to suspect you have an ignition problem , either timing , or coil/condenser failure.Andy.Couldn’t get that link to work , first and foremost would be to get the coil and condenser PROPERLY tested , and by that I don’t mean wasting ones time with a multimeter.Andy.Hi all.
I seem to be having similar problems with my machine.
It will start after 4 or five pulls from cold. It runs for a few minutes then dies and will not run till it cools down.
Been playing with the carb but that doesn’t seem to make much difference.
How would I get the coil tested?
Villiers parts show it as a £75 part which is a bit much just to try.
MickI know it might sound strange but have you changed the plug. Not had much to do with Villiers but I do know Hondas are prone to cutting out when hot if the plug is old.Curiously I bought a Denso version of the plug that was in when I got it. And that might well be wrong as it was a garden ornament not a runner.
I swapped back to the old plug and it runs, bit of popping back through the carb but it recovers and runs ok.
Shakes like a tin outhouse which I guess is the cutter head, i took off the spring drive bar to cut drive to the blade and it runs fine. So it may be a carb issue as it doesn’t seem to respond quickly to cutting the throttle and coughs back through the intake when it does slow down.
I’m.in the dark with these old 2 strokes, it could be running just right and I’m expecting too much of it. Then again I may be way off the mark on setting it up.
I will try to get hold of an appropriate plug and may replace the HT lead as it’s a bit frayed at the plug end, still give a hell of a kick if I brush past it.
I will carry on tinkering before I drag it to some grass lol. I live on a hill and dragging it back up without reliable engine power is quite hard.
MickAny reputable garden machinery dealer should have a proper tester , try to go for one that’s been in buisness for quite a while , most modern upstarts know next to nothing about coils and condensers.
Spitting and banging is quite often incorrect timing thoroughly check it.Andy.Points and timing are all correct.Did you set the timing from basics ie x degrees or fractions of an inch btdc or by using any arrows or marks that you may have found on the flywheel ?I set my timing by measuring the piston 5/32 of an inch BTDC. I take it that’s right? I simply measured it using a caliper gauge, what is the best way to be accurate? Make a L shaped probe with the bottom part machined to 5/32?
There were arrows and Mark’s on the alloy fan casing and flywheel but as I wasnt sure about them i didnt use them.
George from villiers parts says its probably an ignition issue.
6000cd rds eon wiring manual. I will check and reset the timing to rule that out before I start replacing things.It is possible that you may have mixed up two methods of setting the timing. Your original method of putting the piston to the specified amount before tdc and turning the fly wheel unit the points just open is correct.
On some engines, In an move to make things easier Villiers muddied the waters a bit by doing all the initial set up and then stamping an arrow on to the flywheel corresponding to a nib on the casting with the piston positioned at tdc. Muddle the two systems together and the timing will be somewhat amiss.
I would go back to your basic method. Set the correct points gap , turn the engine back to the specified figure and fit and lock the flywheel in the position where the points are just opening .In case it is of use I’ve just scanned this for you. Interestingly in this edition there is no mention of the “short cut”.I have cracked it I think. I know it doesn’t sound as good as eureka but it’s the same feeling.
I took the whole fan casing, fan and flywheel off this morning. Cleaned the points and set them to 14 thou.
I used a depth gauge I made to measure from the plug hole to the piston crown, added 5/32 and that came to 20.63mm
I then used that gauge to hold the piston while I set the points to just opening.
When I rebuilt the cowling and fitted the fan the two arrows lined up absolutely bang on TDC.
Two pulls is all it takes to start her now and she will start from hot or cold. - Posts
New to the group and the world of vintage engines. I have recently acquired a Howard yeoman rotavator with a mk40 villiers engine fuelled by a zenith t24.2 carb. Unfortunately she is missing the throttle linkages and I am struggling to find images on line on how to connect the governor.
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